Wednesday, November 24, 2010

More Spray!!!

I guess I will follow suit and post some more videos. This past weekend Brian and I were climbing in Bishop and while we were editing the WEEKEND WARRIORS video(shown above) Brian suggested the idea of a blog. Im excited to have somewhere to post all of my experiences because it seems like nowadays I forget things as soon as they happen. Anyways here are some videos I have made over the past year-

This first video was shot last year when I was in Bishop. Brian and Scott Cory were with me and they were willing to shoot some video of me on these two gems. It includes a classic boulder problem called Xavier's Roof and a Scanner Darkly, which was somewhat of an epic for me, falling on the last move multiple times on separate days and tearing a huge hole in my pinkie twice! Anyways Scanner Darkly is a huge accomplishment for me and still remains one of the hardest boulders I have climbed. enjoy.



The next video that I made was when I was taking a short hiatus from bouldering and started sport climbing for a bit. Here is me falling off of the last move on a classic climb out at mickey's beach called Surf Safari. It is a classic climb and on of my favorites. I ended up sending it the next weekend thankfully.


This video is of my trip to joe's valley beck in april with Scott Cory. Scott filmed me on all of these climbs.


This last video I made was shot two weekends ago when I went to Bishop with my older brother, Cade. I was lucky enough to have Cade there to film me on the Buttermilker. The Buttermilker might be my favorite boulder that I have climbed so far because it is so unique and I have never tried another problem quite like it. It was also my first V13 and I am VERY psyched to have climbed it.


Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Spray

I've been fortunate enough to climb some amazing routes and boulder problems the last couple of year and on top of that good fortune I've had some great guys take video of those climbs.  I figured I'd put them all in one spot.  I'm sure some of you who will read this will have already seen them, some of you maybe not...

In January of 2008 I went  to Bishop with a few friends from the bay.  Matt Lloyd had just moved to Oakland from California and wanted to make the trip and get a couple climbs on footage.  He ended leaving to go back to Colorado shortly after this and other than a random run in at the following trade show in SLC, I haven't talked to him since....




I climbed the brilliant Stained Glass (V10), a climb I had done one of the previous weekends and SoulSlinger (V9).  Matt Johnson is seen doing the intimidatingly tall and impressively beautiful Jedi Mind Tricks (V4) while  Mark Heal takes it home with a couple classics on the obscure 395 Boulder on the way to Carson City.

The next video take us to February of the following year.  Jon McCartie made a great "get psyched" video featuring the great talents of Ethan Pringle, Daniel Woods, Ian Cotter-Brown and Giovanni Traversi....I was thrown in there as well.  The video starts off with Giovanni climbing my favorite climb in bishop, Haroun and the Sea of Stories (V11/12) and then has Daniel climbing two classics (Xavier's Roof and Secrets of the Beehive) with Ian sending Stained Glass (V10).  It later shows me doing Mandala from the stand start for the first time using Ethan's beta.  Finally it shows Ethan making a 3rd ascent of Flight of the Bumblebee.



Mirando from Jon McCartie on Vimeo.
Bouldering in Bishop, CA -- January 2009.

Climbers:
Mark Heal, Giovanni "G" Traversi, Ian Cotter-Brown, Daniel Woods, Ethan Pringle, Brian Hedrick

Camera and Editing:
Jon McCartie


The following season in Bishop I had finished off a couple of projects that Walker wanted to film.  He ended up making a pretty well done video for Deadpoint magazine.  In it I do Stained Glass (V10), Soul Slinger (V9), High Plains Drifter (V7), Buttermilker STAND (V12), and Haroun and the Sea of Stories (V11/12).  I'm not sure how to embed Deadpoint Videos so I'll just give the link here...

http://www.deadpointmag.com/climbing-videos/watch/bishop-butters

The last two are more recent.  I went to Tahoe with Ethan, Vitaly, and Gregor a couple months ago.  Ethan took video of him and I sending Jesse Bonin's Party Animal (V12) and WearBird (V10/11) (the actual name is Where There's a Will There's a Way ).  I got the second ascent of Party Animal with Ethan sending it right after.  I also flashed WearBird.  Good trip.


Erratica 9/11 from Ethan Pringle on Vimeo.


The last video was taken last Friday by Gregor Peirce.  I ended up finishing Mandala SDS (V13).  It is by far the hardest climb I've done.  Also one of  the best.  Gregor also pulls out an impressively quick send of Form Destroyer (V12).


WEEKEND WARRIORS from Gregor Peirce on Vimeo.


Hope that gets most of you psyched for this season!